Tweed is traditionally a closely-woven wool fabric which is durable, relatively heavy and often brown or green in colour. It was associated with British aristocratic outdoor leisure pursuits and became popular among the middle classes in the early 1900s.

The term is sometimes said to be derived from a misinterpretation of the word ‘tweel’, Scottish for ‘twill’, a type of textile weave. Legend has it that it was wrongly assumed to be a brand name associated with the River Tweed and that the name stuck.

The wool is dyed before carding (straightening) and the mixed colour effects are usually achieved by combining differently coloured batches before the spinning process.

‘Fantasy tweed’ can incorporate non-wool materials such as silk and artificial fibres and is often in non-traditional colours.

Coco Chanel did much to popularise both traditional and fantasy tweed in the 1920s. She became familiar with British aristocratic clothing through her 10-year relationship with the Duke of Westminster, staying regularly at his Scottish estates in Argyll.

Initially she sourced most of her supply from Linton Tweeds of Carlisle but demand became so great that she set up her own manufacturing facility outside Paris. One of her most iconic tweed designs was a pink suit worn by Jackie Kennedy.